On the Road: Prague! The Dream of Bohemia

May 22-28, 2016

In 1993, I learnt of from Children’s Daily that Czechoslovakia split into 2 countries on First of January, which the fact intrigued me to do a research of Czech Republic. In 1995, I kept reading Professor Yu Guangzhong’s essays about his Prague experience, at the same time, I found Alfons Mucha’s ladies mysterious yet elegant. And 5 years later, I encountered Franz Kafka’s The Metamorphosis at European Literature seminar. At the beginning of 2016, while I acknowledge that May holidays are available, immediately I book 2 flight tickets at Czech Airlines, and I deeply know this central Europe adventure would be highly cultural and sensational.

Domestic flight is so economic therefore, that we must seek some fatty food and beer for IIHF championship watching after our hotel check-in. The nightlife in Prague is long and fun, old town square and those pebble road streets are inevitably packed with typical souvenir shops and mini-tour vender, while the endless Bristol and pub lighten up the stone architecture. Founded during the Romanesque and flourishing by the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque and eras, Prague was not only the capital of the Czech state, but also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

Our travelling strategy is highly climate orientation; On May 23rd the day is clear, so we proceed to Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, St. Nicolas Church, Golden Lane via Charles Bridge by foot. When the clouds is gathering and thundering, on 24^th we visit museums and go shopping at Wencesales Square, and since our accommodation, Fusion Hotel, is only 50 meters to Mucha Museum, I can just enjoy by myself while my hubby is searching his ideal souvenir, and then we spend time in Old Town Square to view Astronomical Clock, Powder Tower, Týn Church and Jewish District for whole day long. Since we will take train to stay 2 nights in Bratislava on 25^th, therefore, I will postpone my Prague shopping plan on the very last day before we departure.

Prague Castle (Pražsky Hrad) is a castle complex in Prague, dating from the 9th century, the castle was a seat of power for Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman Emperors, and Presidents of Cezchslovakia. The Bohemian Crown Jewels are kept within a hidden room inside it. According to the Guinness Book of Records, Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle in the world, occupying an area of almost 70,000 square meters, at about 570 meters in length and an average of about 130 meters wide. For the visit, there is Long Visit (circuit A, 350 kr.) for 7 architectures to spend, and Short Visit (250 kr.) for access Gothic St. Vitus, Romanesque Basilica of St. George, Old Royal Palace and Golden Lane.

We purchase Short Visit plus 50 kr. For photo shooting permit card and the whole complication of St. Vitus Cathedral is in 1929, while the present-day Gothic Cathedral was founded on 21 of November 1344, when the Prague bishopric was raised to an archbishopric. The foundation stone for the new building was laid by King John of Bohemia, its patrons were the chapter of cathedral, the Archbishop Arnost of Pardubice, and Charles IV, King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor, who intended the new cathedral to be a coronation church, family crypt, treasury for the most precious relics of the kingdom, and the last resting place cum pilgrimage site of patron St. Wenceslaus.

In St. Vitus cathedral, the most outstanding place shall be the Chapel St. Wenceslas, where the relics of the saint are kept. Unfortunately, the Chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from the doorways. Still, I found the Mucha Window while about exiting the East Gate. In the 1920s Czech Art Nouveau painter Alfons Mucha decorated the new windows in the north part of nave. And the Rose Window was designed by Frantisek Kysela in 1925, above the portal, the Rose Window depicts scenes from the biblical story of creation. The tall windows follow arcade after every arcade, they filter the lights to the quiet marble vaults, and layer the sparkling hues of the bleak St. Vitus.

Contrasting the tremendous cathedral and basilica, Golden Lane (Zlatá Ulička) is a street consists of tiny colored houses, situated behind the Prague Castle, is cute and full of the sense of fairy tales. Its name is connected with 16th century alchemists. Nowadays there are many souvenir shops in the houses and there is a medieval museum of armory within the former 14th-century fortification accessible from the Golden Lane.

My dream visiting Prague is to find House no. 22, because of is connected with one of my favourite writers, Franz Kafka, who stayed at this house for approximately two years (from 1916 to 1917) to write in peace. No. 22 is a tiny brick mini house with low door with evergreen paint, a sky blue wall decorated along with the burgundy pipes. Now a souvenir shop, displays Kafka’s novels and handmade bookmarks, then, this tranquil space provides Czech-Jewish writer completed the pioneering existentialism The Metamorphosis. I still tears for George Samsa’s monstrous fate while reading the novel, yet in Prague, after dreaming 20 years, dear Franz, I finally find you.